Safari Journal: Uganda’s Wild Heart

Dawn at Murchison Falls

The African dawn breaks differently here – a watercolor of oranges and purples painting the papyrus-lined banks of the mighty Nile. My first morning in Uganda’s largest national park, and the thundering of Murchison Falls in the distance provides nature’s soundtrack. Woke to the distinctive calls of ross turacos, their crimson wings flashing through the canopy.

River Encounters

The morning boat safari revealed the Nile awakening. Pods of hippos surveyed us with suspicious eyes, their massive bodies half-submerged in the river. Counted over thirty in one bend alone, their grunts and snorts echoing across the water. A massive Nile crocodile, surely decades old, basked on a sandy bank, its scaled armor glinting in the morning sun.

The highlight was watching a herd of elephants descend to the riverbank, using their trunks like snorkels as they crossed to better grazing grounds. The youngsters stayed close to their mothers, clearly enjoying their swimming lesson.

Savanna Plains

Ventured into the rolling savanna north of the falls. The landscape here is dotted with borassus palms, their distinctive fan-shaped crowns creating perfect vantage points for fish eagles. Encountered a tower of Rothschild’s giraffes, one of the rarest giraffe subspecies, their geometric patterns distinct against the green backdrop.

Late afternoon brought us to a pride of lions lounging on a rocky outcrop. Unlike their eastern cousins, these lions have adapted to climbing trees – a behavior unique to this region. Watched in awe as one male effortlessly scaled a fig tree for a better vantage point.

Into the Forest

The day began in the Budongo Forest, home to Uganda’s largest mahogany trees. The contrast with the savanna was striking – from open plains to dense, humid forest. A troop of chimpanzees moved through the canopy above, their calls echoing through the forest. Watching them use tools to fish for termites offered a window into their incredible intelligence.

Red-tailed monkeys and black-and-white colobus provided an ongoing aerial display, while forest elephants moved like shadows between the massive tree trunks.

The Wetlands

Explored the papyrus swamps near the delta. These wetlands host some of Africa’s most spectacular birdlife. Spotted the prehistoric-looking shoebill stork – a bird that looks like it flew straight out of the Jurassic period. Its massive bill and unblinking stare make it one of Africa’s most remarkable creatures.

A family of sitatunga, Africa’s only aquatic antelope, picked their way delicately through the swamp. Their splayed hooves are perfectly adapted to this soggy environment.

The Night Watch

As darkness fell, the savanna transformed. Spotted hyenas emerged from their dens, their calls echoing across the darkness. A serval cat hunted in the moonlight, its extraordinary leaps illuminated by our spotlight as it pursued rats in the tall grass.

The most magical moment came when we encountered a pair of leopards on their nightly patrol, their eyes glowing like emeralds in our lights.